The Iconic Pilgrim Hostel in Rates on the Portuguese Way: Interview.

Sacred Paths: The iconic pilgrim center for the Portuguese Way in Rates.

An interview with Isabel Vilhena, pilgrim, hospitalera, and president of the Rates Pilgrims' Association.

The Camino de Santiago: a sacred spiritual journey.

Preserving humanity's spiritual legacy is important, as it defines the very essence of our being. It is not tied to any specific religion; rather, it is a matter of deep personal conviction.

Pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago follow a path of self-discovery through a long journey.

Rates is one of the most iconic pilgrim hostels on the Portuguese Way. Isabel, who wisely leads the association that manages it, kindly agreed to this interview, helping us better understand the true spirit of the experience.

Leadership and Hospitaleros of the Rates Donation-Based Pilgrim Hostel – Portuguese Way.

How did the Rates Hostel come about? What is its history?

The Rates Hostel was established to welcome pilgrims walking the Portuguese Way of St. James. It opened on July 25, 2004, thanks to the initiative of a pilgrim, with the support of the Parish Council and a local family. The hostel is part of the Farmers' Museum and has become a key hub for support and connection among pilgrims from various countries.

Rates also shares a strong connection with the history and legend of Saint Peter of Rates, who is traditionally considered the first Bishop of Braga. Legend holds that Saint Peter of Rates was consecrated bishop by Saint James—who asked him to evangelize the region—and was ultimately martyred for his faith. This connection made Rates a place of great religious significance and strengthened its bond with the Camino de Santiago.

Tell us about your experience as a pilgrim; how do you experience—or how have you experienced—walking the Camino?

The Camino de Santiago entered my life during a rather difficult period. Although I had visited Santiago many times before, those trips were mostly just outings—almost an annual tradition. It wasn't until 2006 that I discovered the Camino as a pilgrim, and in doing so, I discovered a part of myself as well. Over the years, the way I experience it has evolved. Today, I feel the Camino is something deeply personal—an experience I like to live on my own terms. That said, I enjoy doing it in a group, sharing the path, the silence, meals, and stories; I especially love life in the *albergues* (pilgrim hostels). Perhaps that is because the Camino is about so much more than just reaching Santiago. There is faith, of course, but there is also culture, sharing, encounters, and—above all—people. Interestingly, many of the friendships formed on the Camino have endured over the years. Perhaps it is because we spend twenty-four hours a day living so intensely alongside the same people: either lifelong bonds are forged, or we realize we never want to see them again.

And then there is the arrival at the Plaza del Obradoiro. It is perhaps the only part of my experience that I cannot truly explain to anyone. There is an emotion that defies words. It is the anticipation of arriving, the joy of having made it, and, at the same time, a strange sadness upon realizing that the moment is coming to an end. For so many kilometers, we long to arrive... and yet, when we do, we almost don't want it to be the end. Perhaps because the Camino never truly ends.

I have been going to Santiago for about 20 years, and I still cannot say exactly what the Camino means to me. Perhaps it is because it is not something to be understood, but something to be felt. Perhaps every journey offers a different answer. And maybe the arrival is, after all, just the beginning of another journey—the one we travel within ourselves.

What advice would you give to today’s pilgrims—whether young or old—so they can truly experience the magic of the Camino?

I would tell them to enjoy the Camino, to appreciate every step, every encounter, and every moment. To truly live it. I know that nowadays we live so much of our lives through the internet and social media, but perhaps it is worth trading a few selfies for more photos of the Camino itself—of the landscapes, the people, and the shared moments. More records of communal dinners, conversations, and shared experiences, and less concern with how we appear to others. Getting up at the crack of dawn just to secure a spot at the next hostel is not, in my opinion, what experiencing the Camino is about. The Camino lies not in the photo we post, but in what we feel, learn, and share as we walk it. The one we traverse within ourselves.

What advice would you give to today’s pilgrims—whether young or old—so they can truly experience the magic of the Camino?

To enjoy the Camino, and to appreciate every step, every encounter, and every moment. To live it authentically. I know that nowadays we live so much of our lives through the internet and social media, but perhaps it is worth trading a few selfies for more photos of the Camino itself—the landscapes, the people, and the shared moments. More records of communal dinners, conversations, and experiences shared together, and less concern with how we appear to others. Getting up at the crack of dawn just to secure a spot at the next hostel isn't really experiencing the Camino, in my opinion. The Camino isn't found in the photo we post, but in what we feel, learn, and share as we walk it.

Why would I advise pilgrims from all over the world to walk the Portuguese Way?

I can only speak about the route I know best: the Portuguese Central Way to Santiago. It is a historic route—one traversed by Portuguese kings and queens—that offers a wealth of scenic beauty and cultural richness. Those who set out from Lisbon gradually appreciate this diversity along the way. In the Minho region—home to the Rates *albergue*—we encounter the greenery, history, and identity so characteristic of Northern Portugal; upon entering Galicia via Tui, we sense an almost natural continuity with Portugal (though Galicians might say otherwise!). It is a well-marked route with good amenities—including *albergues*, restaurants, and pharmacies—although the section through Porto could still use some improvement. It is not a particularly grueling route, making it accessible to many pilgrims.

In your experience and view, do you think the traditional sense of "welcoming" the pilgrim is being lost?

I feel that, in a way, we are losing an important part of the essence of the Camino de Santiago: Jacobean hospitality. I serve as a host at the Albergue de Rates, one of the few hostels that still upholds the *donativo* (voluntary contribution) spirit. It isn't a free hostel; pilgrims are invited to contribute whatever they can and wish to give. We are all volunteers there, driven above all by the desire to welcome pilgrims and offer them a genuine Camino experience. Sometimes, I feel this form of hospitality isn't valued as much as it used to be—perhaps because the Camino has changed and is increasingly tied to commercial interests. I don't view the commercial aspect as necessarily negative, but I do think it is important not to let it eclipse what makes the Camino so special: simplicity, sharing, generosity, and human connection.

Do you consider it important to try to keep churches and chapels open at various points and stages along the way?

Yes, I believe chapels and churches should remain open whenever possible—not only for their religious significance but also for their cultural and human value. Along the journey, there are spaces for silence, reflection, and inner connection. How often, on a hot or exhausting day, does stepping into a church and spending a few brief minutes in that silence help us regain our strength and continue on our way? And I am not speaking only to Catholics or those who practice a religion; churches are also places of contemplation and meditation where anyone can find a moment of peace.

I understand, however, the reason why many of them are closed. Theft, vandalism, and acts of desecration are a reality that necessitates protective measures. It is a pity, because the desire to keep these spaces open often conflicts with the need to preserve and protect them. Romanic Church San Pedro de Rates.

Do you consider the Camino de Santiago a sacred path?

Yes. I would say that the Camino de Santiago is a sacred path, although each person may experience this dimension in different ways. It is sacred due to its origins and the centuries-old tradition of pilgrimage, but also because of what happens internally to those who walk it. Silence, physical exertion, nature, solitude, encounters with other pilgrims, and moments of reflection allow the journey to transcend the merely physical realm. Even for non-religious individuals, a spiritual dimension can exist: walking, stepping away from daily routine, facing challenges, encountering oneself, and—often—discovering new meaning in what one carries within.

Is there anything else you would like to add that you think would be of interest to our readers?

I simply hope the Camino does not lose its true essence. I am by no means advocating for a return to the Middle Ages or rejecting the changing times. I understand that organized, paid Camino options exist today, and I am no longer opposed to that reality; if a pilgrim prefers to experience the Camino that way, it is a legitimate choice. My concern is that these new ways of walking the Camino might end up crowding out pilgrims who seek traditional hostels—like ours—or public ones. I am also concerned about the alteration of the routes themselves for purely commercial purposes. Over the years, we have seen many detours created—in our view—solely to route pilgrims past specific commercial establishments.

I also consider it important for pilgrim information centers to maintain their true function—providing information and guidance—rather than influencing pilgrims to choose certain routes over others for the sake of tourism or commercial interests. Likewise, I believe these centers should not turn into promotional outlets for tourism programs, losing sight of the fact that their primary purpose is to support those walking the Camino. And, perhaps most importantly, I would like public authorities to listen more closely to those actually on the ground: the people walking the Camino, those working in the hostels, and those who support pilgrims on a daily basis. Often, a tourism official or municipal employee—however competent—cannot grasp the reality of the situation in the same way as someone who experiences the Camino every day.

We need fewer conferences, fewer photo ops, and fewer decisions made from afar—and more attention to the real issues facing those on the Camino.

Ultimately, what I desire is simple: for the Camino to remain, above all, a journey of pilgrimage, connection, and sharing, rather than turning into merely a tourism product. Let it modernize, certainly, but without losing its soul.

Picture by Mads Schmidt Rasmusse

Albergue de Peregrinos S. Pedro de Rates

Rua Santo António, 189

4570-503 Rates. Portugal.

Sacred Paths